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View Full Version : Starting fresh! Biggest Noob! Help need setting up a tank!



sampimpinthug
February 20th, 2008, 12:21 AM
Hey guys I am new to this fish business so here is the scoop. My friend spoke to me about pets, so I brought up the topic of fishes and so now I would like to get a pet fish.

So this is what I have so far, I have a 10gallon tank as well as a heater and a pump as well as a HOT filter.

Now here are the questions I need to ask.

1st question: I am thinking of getting a betta fish and a lionhead goldfish. So is this a good idea? are they compatible?

2nd question: Since i want the best stuff for the fishes I am actually thinking of upgrading the filter and the pump. I am thinking of getting a fluval 305(up to 70 gallon) and a bigger pump for around 70 gallons.

The reason why I am getting bigger pump and filter is because this is my first tank which is a 10 gallon and eventually I am going to upgrade, so I am thinking a one time investment would be nice. Any suggestions to that? Pros and cons?

3rd question: Since I am really new at this thing, could someone kindly please tell me what should I start my tank with? because my empty tank is just sitting around.

So what are the first things to get? sandbed? coral reefs? live rocks? is that it??

How important are coral reefs for fishes? Are coral reefs living being?

My most important question is what are these bactarea's I read online that i need to generate some bactarea for the bio filter and I have to let the bactarea sit in there for about 3 weeks.

What is nitrate level? nitrite level? ammonia level? silanity level? I know the chemical compounds. I know the difference between nitrate and nitrite, Nitrate is NO3- and nitrite is NO2-. Nitrite has one less ion of oxygen. So what does this have to do with the water tank? DO I even need to know all this, since I am going for a fresh water tank and not a saltwater tank?

I am soooo confused about this thing. Could anyone please guide me by telling me what to get first and what to do first? I want to go slow and buy things step by step, and not all at once.

Thanks everyone in advance who actually took the time to read the post and thanks to people who replied it.

marks69
February 20th, 2008, 01:32 AM
i wouldn't put a betta in with a goldfish. goldfish get really dirty fast. also will outgrow a 10 in a few months. check out pricenetwork or look for a local forum for better freshwater ideas. a filter for a 70 won't work for a 10. your betta need slow waterflow. try an aquaclear or similar hob filter. when you get another tank get a bigger filter. keep the smaller tank for quarenteen or fry tank. you'll also find that a bigger tank is more stable and less work. it takes longer to clean my 10's then my 90
gl
mark

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/marks69/897.jpg

tlo
February 20th, 2008, 01:53 AM
I agree with the above poster. A goldfish is will get too big for a 10 g. A betta would be good for that size, but would have to be your only fish. Otherwise a school of neons is really pretty.
But all these fish have their own needs as far a temperature, water flow and ph goes. So go to your pet store, see what you like and read up on them so you can provide an ideal home for them.

Monti
February 20th, 2008, 05:58 AM
What is nitrate level? nitrite level? ammonia level? silanity level? I know the chemical compounds. I know the difference between nitrate and nitrite, Nitrate is NO3- and nitrite is NO2-. Nitrite has one less ion of oxygen. So what does this have to do with the water tank? DO I even need to know all this, since I am going for a fresh water tank and not a saltwater tank?


You can skip most of this in freshwater. Fish waste is basically ammonia which is toxic to fish. Bacteria (don't worry, it grows automatically) will live on the surface of the stones and break the waste down into (also toxic) Nitrite and then Nitrate which is safe for most freshies. You should test for ammonia for the first few weeks until you are sure it has gone away, then you can forget the kit.

Starting the system is as easy as filling the tank with clean water and adding a load of fish food for the bacteria to eat. In a day, the water will go cloudy and in a week, it should clear up. About a week later, you can do a small water change and test for ammonia.

Most people start with 5/dollar feeder goldfish because they are cheap and dirty the tank fast.

sampimpinthug
February 20th, 2008, 11:10 AM
Are you guys sure I can't put a lionhead along with betta? Because I have a friend of mine he used to work at safari store for about 3 years and he told me that with a 10g tank i can have a betta along with 2-3 goldfishes, even lionheads. As for the filter I am guessing I am going to use the filter system which came with tank itself. I just would have to buy the cartridge. Can anyone please tell me what kind of filtration would an HOT filter would do? Mechanical? Chemical? Bioligical?
If it doesn't do biological or chemical, what are my options to that? This guy recommended me these three bottles and told me that I just neeed to put that in the aquarium and put the last bottle a day before I am going to put the fishes and it will take care of the biological part.

As for setting up the initial tank, I think I am going to start with a sandbed and some live rocks along with coral reefs. As for starting the system and bactarea, it sounds too complicated, could you please give me some extra details in it, although I have heard betta is one of the strongest fishes and it could live in a dirty water as well.

If not goldfish what alternative do I have with betta. I just don't want an empty tank with just one fish hangin around. Neons tetras would be nice to have even angel fish.

Some suggestions would be be nice to have. I will pass by the pet store after work and school. I'll keep you guys updated as to what information I received.

BTW what's a fry tank? a tank of frogs I am guessing?

Thanks to everyone who replied.

Monti
February 20th, 2008, 02:28 PM
A fry tank is a dedicated tank used to raise baby fish.

HOT filters will do chemical, biological and mechanical depending on what inserts you put in the box. Sponge for mechanical and bio, charcol for chemical and bio, amrid for ammonia removal and bio.


Starting the tank is simple. Just get it dirty with organic stuff and wait a week or two. Remember to get a heater and watch your water level that you don't loose too much in evaporation.


have fun

marks69
February 20th, 2008, 02:53 PM
for freshwater you don't use a sandbed and live rock. you can put sand in, but just pool sand or blackshot from a rental place. it's used for sandblasting but is ok for the tank. to cycle your tank which is how you get the good bacteria, the best way si to find a friend with a tank and borrow some dirty filter media. other than that you pretty much have to add amonia, what till it's gone. it'll turn into nitrite, the turns into nitrate. when you get that your tank is cycled. hot filters are supposed to be ok, and well do the job for you. if you put a betta in with angels they will fight. if your set on a betta male a gouramis will work, neons should be ok. rainbows are a good choice. in a month or so you can get more fish. for now put your betta in the tank and test the water every day till it's safe. then you can add a couple of fish at a time.
gl
mark

sampimpinthug
February 21st, 2008, 06:48 PM
So I went to Aquatropical and they told me that I can't put goldfish with a betta. But there is also some strange things they told me for example, they told me if I have a filter I don't need a pump, because I always thought there are 3 essential things to run an aquarium the filter, the heater as well as the pump.

Next thing they told me is that the HOT tank will only do biological and mechanical but won't do chemical and for chemical I need some sort of liquid.

So yesterday I bought the gravel and i asked the person what else I need to start my tank and he gave me these two bottles. One says stress coat and stress zyme. I always thoguht there were three bottles, one to condition the water next to add bactarea and the other one for something else.

marks69
February 21st, 2008, 11:08 PM
for chemical you use carbon. most people don't run carbon unless your trying to take meds out of the water. for conditioning your water you can just use prime. all you need is something to take the chlorine out. i don't bother with stresscoat or zime. seems like a waste of money to me. a pump is only needed if you are running a sponge filter.

sampimpinthug
February 21st, 2008, 11:20 PM
what kinda filters exist? and what is the best? and which one should I get?

marks69
February 21st, 2008, 11:41 PM
for a 10 just get a small hang on back filter. when you get a larger tank get a cannister. then every week when you do a waterchange you just need to rinse out the sponge in old tank water. the aquaclear filters are really good.

sampimpinthug
February 22nd, 2008, 12:28 AM
that is what I am getting! So great I don't a pump then. I could just keep the one I have in spare. Now my two biggest concerns lighting and heater?

How many watts of heater should I get? I saw this really cool heater on ebay 300w it even has a thermometer in it. and i can adjust the temperature with the thermometer and it is submerline. I really like it so can I use that one? I do have a heater but I don't know how it works. It just has a knob with H and L and I don't know how to put it to specific temperature. If i turn to H it keeps on turning and if I turn to L it keeps on turning so I have no idea how to work that thing.

Now as for the lighting should I get led blue ones or metal halide? I need really blue so should I get like 10000k or 14000k or 20000k and if I do get metal halide where do i have to put them and where do i put them in the aquarium and where will the bulb fit?


Also another thing is I am thinking of getting ph7 calibrator which would make my water to 7 PH. Any suggestions?

I want to get some glow in light danios and glow in light tetras and a betta.

The Ideal temp for a glowlight tetra is:
Tank Conditions: 72-77°F; pH 5.5-7.0; KH 4-8 (Sourced by Liveaquaria.com)


The ideal temp for a glowlight danios is:
Tank Conditions: 73-79°F; pH 6.5-7.0; KH 8-12 (Sourced by Liveaquaria.com)


The ideal temp for a Betta is:
Tank Conditions: 75-86°F; pH 6.0-8.0; KH 0-25 (Sourced by Liveaquaria.com)

which brings me to a conclusion that the perfect temp for all these fishes would be 75-76F and a PH of 6.5-7.0 and a KH of 8.




Thanks.

sampimpinthug
March 27th, 2008, 03:07 PM
So I have set up my tank and it has been about 5 days since I have set up my tank and i don't know how this "break-in process" is going to happen. as Monti said the water is going to be cloudy in a day and it will clear in a week. it hasn't happened yet. When I did set up the tank I put in 1 teaspoon of stress coat the day before the fish was introduced and the day the fish was introduced i put in 2 teaspoons of zime. I do my ammonia test everyday and it has been 0.50 everyday.




Another thing I wanted to ask is that how frequently do I do a water change for the new tank and how do i do it? Also it says on the the zime bottle to put in two teaspoons every 7 days. So I am not sure how it works if I change the water every week.
Also If i do change the water every week how is the bacteria going to be generated and how is the filter will get started and how will it get used to ammonia and bacteria?
Another thing, How do I check if the bacteria is being generated or not and if the filter is actually work or not? and how much bacteria is being generated?


When can I start putting more fishes?



Thanks & Best Regards
Sam

marks69
March 27th, 2008, 06:33 PM
on my smaller tanks i do water changes once a week. when you start getting nitrate and nitrite your tank is fully cycled. then you can add a fish or 2 at a time. once yout tank is cycled you cam put the zyme away. just keep checking the water and look at the readings for all 3. when amonia is 0 your onto the next stage.

sampimpinthug
March 27th, 2008, 08:45 PM
Major problem with my tank!! there are insects being produced by the plants!! what should I do? Should I remove or feed it to my betta?

marks69
March 27th, 2008, 09:53 PM
it's probably snails. no need to panic. pick them out when you see them. if it's little white flecks the fish will clean them up.

sampimpinthug
March 28th, 2008, 02:45 PM
So I am changing the water of my tank tomorrow. I was wondering, if i should change the whole water or a percentage of it? and if i do change the whole water should I add stress coat and stress zyme again?

Also if I change the water aren't I going to lose the bacteria that was suppose to be produced in order for the filter to establish?

Thanks & Best Regards

marks69
March 29th, 2008, 01:35 PM
i would only change mabye 10-15% will your tank is cycled. just make sure the water is the same temp as the tenk. the bacteria is in the gravel and the filter. only gravel vac 1/2 of your tank for now. do another change in a few days and do the other side. are you getting nitrate and nitrite yet? also any readings?

sampimpinthug
March 29th, 2008, 10:50 PM
Something terrible happened! I took my fish out to cycle the water and i put it into this bowl in another room so my little sister wouldn't touch him but when I came back after 20 seconds he had jumped out and was just laying on the ground not even shaking or anything just lying flat, not even shaking due to no water but then i caught it and put it back in the bowl it is still alive. Is it possible that it has been injured or due to stress it has some disease now?

Also when I was doing the water cycle I had put in my hands several times to re-arrange the plants and the rock. and I took out a plant because it had lost some of the leaves from its roots and cleaned and put it back together.

Is that going to affect the ammonia and bacteria? Does this mean I have to start all over again and the bacteria would need to be generated again?

Thanks & Best Regards!
Sam

marks69
March 30th, 2008, 12:24 AM
no, you should be ok. leave the fish in the tank next water change. just vacuum around him. and make sure you declorinate the water and have the temp the same. he could be stressed from the out of tank experience just turn off the light for the night. if he's ok tomorrow you should be ok. he shouldn't get sick from it.
you should be reading on a freshwater site. lots of posts that will walk you through all of this. just google cycling a tank.

sampimpinthug
March 30th, 2008, 07:57 AM
oh and BTW my ammonia level is 0.5 I check it everyday. Should I check my nitrate and nitrite?

I thought they weren't important because Monti said Nitrate and Nitrite is safe for fresh water fishes.

Should I get the nitrate and Nitrite test kit? How about the Ph test kit?

Thanks & Best Regards
Sam

marks69
March 30th, 2008, 11:37 AM
you need to check nitrate and nitrite. when the amonia reads 0 then your on to the next step. don't bother with ph, you don't need it.

Monti
March 30th, 2008, 12:12 PM
oh and BTW my ammonia level is 0.5 I check it everyday. Should I check my nitrate and nitrite?

I thought they weren't important because Monti said Nitrate and Nitrite is safe for fresh water fishes.

Should I get the nitrate and Nitrite test kit? How about the Ph test kit?

Thanks & Best Regards
Sam

Sam,
You misread my post. Nitrite is toxic. Nitrate is not.
That being said, I agree with Mark. He is giving you good advice.

Mark, I installed your old tank yesterday.
I need to swap the light bulb out to get rid of the yellow color.

Monti

marks69
March 30th, 2008, 12:20 PM
looks good. ya the bulb is for freshwater. how did the drilling go? i'm using an overflow box on my 125 and wish it was drilled.

Monti
March 30th, 2008, 12:23 PM
Drilling was great. I had ORG do it and they were very professional.

sampimpinthug
March 30th, 2008, 05:10 PM
so I added stress zyme and stress coat again. does this affect the whole cycle and bacteria?

marks69
March 30th, 2008, 05:45 PM
those 2 have nothing to do with the cycle, the bacteria grow in the filter and on the gravel. you really need to do some reading. check out fishgeek or someother freshwater site. read alot. all of your questions have been answered many times.