Sump design. What do u think

[bertcmg]

My tank is not drilled and I am not willing to take it apart and get it drilled so I have come-up with a plan. before looking at the design I would like u to know that I have made a small tank to fit inside the main tank ( in red )

I will be using my 5 gallon tank as a sub but might build another tank alltogather


177/8ths by 4' by 6'

I will place it in the main tank with something heavy to hold it down ( suggestions )

The rest is you can see from the diagram

[static416]

Sorry, but there is a problem. If the power goes off, the siphon will break. Then when the power comes back on the sump pump will pump all the water from the sump into the main. Which means, flood.

The siphon should be between two boxes. One on the inside and one on the outside. Then have a drain from the outside box to the sump. That way the siphon is maintained in a power outage. Which means, no flood.

[static416]

Like this.

[GoSUV]

A few points you must remember:

1. Your MJ1200 pump is barely enough to push water up 56". The pump is rated at 295gph, but at 56" head the flow is much lower.

2. You have to carefully match your overflow/drain rate in order to maintain a balanced water level in your tank and sump. You might have to install a gate valve at the overflow in order to control the flow rate precisely. A ball valve doesn't work as well because a ball valve is designed more for on/off applications.

3. If you ever lose siphon, you will end up flooding the main tank. You must install a float switch in the main tank or sump so that when a preset level is exceeded, the MJ1200 is shut off.

[static416]

Trying again

[static416]

With this design, the siphon maintains itself, and the system is self-balancing. As long as the drain is of higher capacity than the input, the system will balance itself.

[Ocean Images]

There is always the fear of loosing the siphon, drilling the tank is much safer.....but if you must use the siphon method make sure you add cleaning the tube to your scheduled maintenance plan. One algae starts growing in the tube it can reduce the flow and your pump may end up pumping more into the tank then the U-Tube can remove.....
Just speaking from experience :P

[Ocean Images]

Don't forget you will need a small diameter hose to get the siphon started, if you need a small piece drop me a private message and I will send you a 1 foot piece that you can keep beside the tank........trust me it will come in handy
:cheers:

[Dman]

Ahh, it's nice to see I'm not the only one to have lived that nightmare. Late night siphon starts, bimonthly U-tube scrubbing, never again. ALL my tanks from now on will be drilled.
And static has it bang on regarding the dual boxes
Dman
:spin:

[afss]

hook up a piece of airline tubing to the top of the u tube, and run this to the venturi part of a power head. By doing this if air ever gets into.. sorry, WHEN air gets into the U tube, it will get sucked out automatically.

Scott

[Dman]

Scott nice trick :D
Dman
:spin:

[afss]

Thanks.. every now and then i get lucky in this game of trial and error:D

[bertcmg]

as you can see I have to use a metal tubes coming out and going in to the tank because of heat in the hood I just made ( plastic would rish melting.

I have just made a hood for 2 X250 watt MH. and Two N.O Florescent lights

I have added two fan to my list these would be venting sideways or on top ( no holes made yet.

My question is what kind of metal pipes are safe or not safe


Thanks

Bert

[afss]

Use plastic.

It won't melt, there is water in the pipes. If you take a paper cup and fill it with water you can place it in the hot coals of a fire and it won't burn till the water evaporates.... same principle here.

I would also suggest putting the fans so that they both blow air into the tank with vent holse else where for exhaust. If you have the humid air going over the fans you will be more likely to have them fail early.

Scott