What kind of lights can I use?

[donricodelavega]

I'm considering building a canopy to replace the one I have. I dont want to spend a lot of money on the fixtures though. I was wondering whether I can use flourescent fixtures bought at home depot that will fit an aquarium bulb (lets say a 30 inch Sun-glo for the hell of it).

Or are the lights used in aquarium canopies specialty fixtures? Such as they work better close to water and don't burst into flames, burning down your house and stuff (assuming the tank doesn't put out the fire).

The tank I have is a 65G, 48 inches long. Its fresh water.
Any recommendations?


Thanks,

:blob:
Rich (Look at that green blob go! Jump blob jump!)

[afss]

there are water proof end caps that you can use but people also use the normal style tomb stones. Basically if you design your canopy long enough you can use 48 inch bulbs. You could use NO OVRNO, VHO or MH . I guess it depends on if you are doing a planted tank, and what kind of plants you want to keep. I would think that NO or OVRNO would be more that ample for most things you would have in a FW tank.
Scott

[donricodelavega]

Hmmmmmm..... what are tomb stones, NO OVRNO's VHO's and MH's? :D

I'm going to put plants in it. Not exactly sure what though. It's going to have my 3 tiger oscars in it.

Rich

[Daniel Schubert]

Rich

NO are Normal output
OVR NO are overdriven VHO bulbs
VHO are very high output
MH are Metal Halide.

For a fresh water planted tank I would buy two GE 48" SuperDaylight bulbs (about $5.00 each) and two GE 48" Plant/Aquarium Bulbs (about $7.00 each) from Canadian Tire. Buy 2 pairs waterproof double endcaps as Scott suggested from Oakville reef gallery or any other fish store/On-line mail order like this one, that carries them (Not all stores do). Pick up an electronic ballast from Home depot and/or Canadian Tire and your all set. The plants will grow like crazy

[afss]

What he said:D

only difference is OVRNO is overdriven Normal Output

[donricodelavega]

I'm not sure whether I'll need the water proof end caps. I was thinking of just building something to cover the ends as part of my canopy. They would be removable to replace the bulbs. So would I be able to just get away with regular flourescent endcaps and ballists? I was thinking about 2 bulbs on seperate switches that I would put on the outside of the tank. So I could switch them on individually if I wanted too.

[CraigB]

Hi Rich

I don't want to add to the difficulty, but build for expansion...

I originally built my hood around two 48" double fluorescent enclosures (typical Canadian Tire/Home Depot thing). This was nice and clean and the fixtures were exactly 48" so buying the wood was easy, building was easy and clean.

Though I am sure a lot of people has this type of setup, I was not impressed as the bulbs need to be jiggled around once in a while due to corrosion and over time the fixtures started to rust.

I later moved up to a couple of normal output electronic light sets, Mat-Glo2 about $60 for two bulbs. I wanted 4 48" bulbs for $120. These are good for the price and they have waterproof end cap already.

The problem was the end caps took up and extra 1/4 - 1/2 inch in my hood, room that I did not have. I had to go and add a 1/2 inch spacer to the hood. :confused:

I later went and added a couple VHO tube to the mix. (two uri white actinic connected to German end-caps. The addition of VHO is really worth the bucks, then you get around to it.

The next problem was the VHO end caps again add an extra 1/2" to the overall length. (I think you can get 46" VHO bulbs). Adding another 1/2" spacer to the hood looked bad, so I had to rebuild the front of the canopy.

Long story short, I would build the canopy 48 3/4" inside diameter to allow for future lighting upgrades. Other people on this forum may suggest a minimum height just in case you every go with metal halide lights that do take up some room.

Craig

[donricodelavega]

Thanks for the advice.
The equipment I bought is used and I wouldnt really consider putting a great deal of effort into future considerations. The glass is scratched a little, the wood stand has a little surface rot on it too.

I was thinking about a simple canopy that would do for the moment and then I would make a more professional canopy should I ever replace or buy another tank.

I wouldnt be able expand the width aswell based on space constraints. I have it position between 2 doors. A wider canopy would block access to either.

I am curious about the regular fixtures you said rusted though. Was this just due to the humidity or were they splashed?
If I just had them covered from splashing would that prolong their life?

Thanks again,
Rich

[CraigB]

The rust, just surface rust at the corners/edges, appear to have been from the humidity as there was no real splashing. It was not a big deal, just a little rust that looked bad.

The fixtures I am talking about are typically a thin metal box with a metal cover, coving the actual balast and cables.

The rust was not a big deal and it did take over 3 year to look bad so I would not sweat it. You could always give them a quick coat of a Temclad type rust ($5-$8 a spray can) paint that should help.

Another tip, if you stick with the 'tomb stone' connectors, it to use a bit of electrical grease on the fixture contacts. Just this bit of grease should help keep the contacts from oxidizing, or what ever it is that makes for the poor contact.

Craig

[donricodelavega]

What are tombstones? Are those the parts where to slide in the bulb ends and twist them to make the connection?

Rich

[CraigB]

yep