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skimmer
July 21st, 2005, 01:29 PM
I want to save a bit of cash by getting a RO/DI unit for the tank only (instead of buying water from a store) so I just order one from Aqua-Safe on Monday (hope it will arrive here by Friday). Does anyone use it here? I wonder how long will it last before I need to spend more money to replace all filters and other stuff inside. I normally use about only 16-20 gallons a month for my top off and water changes. I am downtown Toronto in a new buidling (under 10 years old so I assume the pipes are decent quality and water is not too bad). How do I know when it is time to replace the stuff inside. Obviously I have never used it before so I clueless about it.

Thanks for any tips and information!

ajx22
July 21st, 2005, 01:46 PM
Just do a search on AP.ca for AquaSafe...you will find your answers.

FYI - Please see:
http://www.aquariumpros.ca/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewcategory&cid=2

and

http://www.aquariumpros.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=4833


Cheers,

Hark
July 21st, 2005, 01:47 PM
you will find lots of people here use the same system....do a search for RO and you will likely see aqua safe's name by most of the threads.

i myself have one...and i am happy with it

RonPeter
July 21st, 2005, 02:46 PM
You'll need a TDS meter to help tell you when it's time to change filters. I've had mine for 7 monthes now and it is still doing good, I make about 25-30 gallons a month is all though. As AJ said do a search for AquaSafe and you will get a ton of threads regasding this unit. Good luck.

MINIATUS
July 21st, 2005, 04:55 PM
I also use this system and am quite happy. I use a TDS meter. The condition of your imput water can affect the life of the carbon and other prefliters.Also the amount of water you will be producing daily will dictate the longivity of the DI canisters. To be on the safe side I replace my prefilters every 9 months and DI when the readings get to high. Also dont forget to back flush your RO weekly if possible as this will help extend its life. They say under normal conditions a RO should last 3 years. JMHO

MINIATUS

BGMW
July 21st, 2005, 05:13 PM
...To be on the safe side I replace my prefilters every 9 months and DI when the readings get to high. Also dont forget to back flush your RO weekly if possible as this will help extend its life. They say under normal conditions a RO should last 3 years. JMHO

MINIATUS

This is WAY too long a time between changes. Especially with clear housings - you will be promoting bacterial growth in the sediment filter.

Proper change rates are:


Sediment/Carbon @ 3-4 Months
RO - 1-3 years (provided that a flush kit has been used regularly - and the prefilters changed at the proper intervals)
DI - minimum of every 6-months ~ or based on TDS creap
HTH,

MINIATUS
July 21st, 2005, 05:58 PM
That can be argued as it also depends on the amount of water produced daily.If you are producing large amounts I would agree but some people only produce maybe 10 gals a week Just an example.

MINIATUS :but:

ajx22
July 21st, 2005, 06:39 PM
That can be argued as it also depends on the amount of water produced daily.If you are producing large amounts I would agree but some people only produce maybe 10 gals a week Just an example.

MINIATUS :but:

The problem is that water sits in the housing.

It's the same principal as oil changes in your car... 5,000kms or 3-months - whichever comes first.

I have built RO/DI systems for going on 5 years now - and have done extensive research into building / maintaining top-knotch systems...this info is from the manufacturers of the products...so it isn't something that can be argued.

Most people in this hobby want clear housings - which is the worst you can have, as this allows light into the filter to encourage bacterial growth.

In reality - a filter that is used daily CAN last longer (considering a low level of sediment in the product water).

9-months is nearly triple the time frame for keeping bacteria at bay.

Do as you wish - but these are the facts...

Sorry,

220G
July 22nd, 2005, 12:26 PM
while I don't agree that you should not question what a manufacturer tells you...as a former student of toxicology lots of hazardous "things" can grow on a dirty carbon filter. Changing them is important. Of particular concern is the popular water filtration devise many people use for water and store in there fridge (without naming any names) - not a good idea for most is you do not change the filters.


The problem is that water sits in the housing.

It's the same principal as oil changes in your car... 5,000kms or 3-months - whichever comes first.

I have built RO/DI systems for going on 5 years now - and have done extensive research into building / maintaining top-knotch systems...this info is from the manufacturers of the products...so it isn't something that can be argued.

Most people in this hobby want clear housings - which is the worst you can have, as this allows light into the filter to encourage bacterial growth.

In reality - a filter that is used daily CAN last longer (considering a low level of sediment in the product water).

9-months is nearly triple the time frame for keeping bacteria at bay.

Do as you wish - but these are the facts...

Sorry,

ajx22
July 22nd, 2005, 02:19 PM
while I don't agree that you should not question what a manufacturer tells you...

lol - I should have been more specific -->

I don't question FDA/NSF publications that the manufacturers have to build their items to adhere to. While I'm well aware of the fact that companies will give you information that is in their best interest - companies that manufacture products that are involved in water filtration (the ones that are NSF approved) are under very stringent guildlines due to e-coli and other very serious health-related issues.

AquariumPros.ca ONLY uses North American made NSF approved parts and filter media for this reason (health). There are MANY other companies that sell their filters for CHEAP PRICES - that don't use approved filtration media (this is why they are able to sell them so cheap).

If you are going to disregard the suggested change times - you really should invest in non-clear filter housings - as this will reduce/remove the light that assists with the bacterial growth. AP.ca offers these (as well as proper NSF-approved filter replacements) if you're interested.

Bottom line is (as I think you were agreeing with) - Changing the filters within the proper timeline is VERY important.

Reeftopia
July 22nd, 2005, 02:57 PM
Used mine for 3-4 months now, Love it, Still have problems in my tank that I started without it. There is always something to be said for the premium r/o units like AP.ca sells.. when at some point your cheap R/O unit is going to be the most vital link in your 3-10 thousand dollar system.... still want it cheap?? ...or good??
Shane

Jellybaby
August 5th, 2005, 09:01 AM
I was wondering if anyone had a picture of them using their Ro/DI aqua-safe unit at home. I'm curious to know how it looks like.

You don't have to keep it plug on the sink all the time right? Just wondring how it works because I live in a very small appart with only 2 sinks and I can't make one always occupied.

One more question, is the water drinkable with that system or it's not recommanded?

Thanks :)

RonPeter
August 5th, 2005, 09:15 AM
Post #1 shows a picture of the unit! You can buy it with the optional tap adapter like I did and use it when making water for a water change and top up water then put it away in a closet. The containers are white not clear so they are better as no light gets into them while not in use.

Jellybaby
August 5th, 2005, 09:50 AM
I saw the pic on the first post, just wanted to know if someone had a pic of them using it in action :) To see how it looks like attach the to tap of the sink they use.

twizttid1
August 5th, 2005, 11:13 AM
It depends on how you hook it up to your water supply. I have a hose adapter..... attached to a 2 way diverter on my laundry tub.... the waste water simply drains into the sink..... although you do have the option of plumbing it directly into a drain pipe (make sure it's above the trap)....

There's not much to "see" when the unit is in action as all the canisters are white... you can't see through them,..... all you see is water coming out the waste water tube and the purified water tube.

ScottyDon't
August 5th, 2005, 05:49 PM
I have an aquasafe RO that I've had for a year now. I change all filters every 6 mths (no DI). I tested it in the beginning and after my first filter change and it was always the same (3-5ppm) so I hadn't tested in a long time and when I did just before my 2nd 6 mth change the tds is 50ppm? So I was hoping the filter change would fix it but it's still around 50ppm. My tap tds is the same (around 120) and my area has good water pressure (never measured it though). I have a feeling the flush/shutoff valve isn't working properly because every once and a while when I try to flush it nothing happens (can't here the water flowing as usual). But it usually works. Does anyone have any ideas as to what my trouble might be??

ajx22
August 5th, 2005, 05:55 PM
Sounds like you need a new TFC membrane. 6-months is too long between prefilter changes - should be closer to 3-months.

Re the flushing - could be due to a clogged TFC - or a clogged flow restrictor.

LUIGI
August 5th, 2005, 06:04 PM
edited...wrong thread

tdhawk
August 5th, 2005, 08:20 PM
I have a feeling the flush/shutoff valve isn't working properly because every once and a while when I try to flush it nothing happens (can't here the water flowing as usual). But it usually works. Does anyone have any ideas as to what my trouble might be??

I have an Aquasafe too. Sometimes mine does't flush either, but if/when it happens I just open up the ro/di shut-off so water is filling up my resevoir as usual then I open up the flush valve. The filtered water stops and the flushing starts. I always just assumed an air block, could be something else but by starting the flush with the ro/di open it always flushes.

H20_Science
August 5th, 2005, 08:36 PM
I was looking at the system you guys are refering to and I think I understand the problem. It looks like the system includes an auto shut off device. If there is an auto shut off device on your system you will not be able to flush the unit while the shut off is activated. The reason is the ASO (auto shut off) senses two fields of pressure. It detects the pressure coming into the system and the pressure caused when the output water is restricted. If you are using a float valve or anything similar and the tank has been filled and the float engaged. You will need to release the pressure that has built up inside the the system against the output of the membrane. Installing a valve on the water feeding your fill tank would be one way if your auto top off system is permanent. Or you could just time your flushes so that it is done while the system is filling the tank.

Hope this helps
Bryan